COZY WINTER VACATION IN EIN GEDI
As we drive through Israel to reach the vibrant heart of the desert, I’m truly excited. To me, this embodies the very essence of Zionism. I find driving through the desert a particularly uplifting experience, especially when it’s been turned into a blooming oasis.
Kibbutz Ein Gedi is a gem of greenery for many reasons. Firstly, it is embraced by streams which surround the charming kibbutz. Secondly, it thrives with flora. Thirdly, but not lastly, amazing people live in this kibbutz. So when we were invited by the Tamar Regional Council to spend a weekend in the kibbutz and taste the experiences and options that winter has to offer, we jumped at the idea.
Waking early, we piled into the car, reaching the entrance to Nahal Arugot at 7.45 am. The journey was easy, all the roads leading to the Dead Sea having been revamped and very different to how I remembered them. Construction at Shoket Junction was almost complete, which will make the road to Arad a fast safe highway.
If you’re the kind of people who invest in your trips and hikes, or you’re photography afficionados, you might be interested in getting up even earlier to add adventure to the trip, and reaching the Dead Sea before sunrise. You’ll be well rewarded with the perfect palette of colors.
At the entrance to Nahal Arugot we were met by Yehonatan Hadass, more commonly known by everyone as Yehonatan the Walker, being a certified tour guide. Born in Kibbutz Ein Gedi, he’s a colorful character, with as many stories and experiences relative to the region as a pomegranate’s seeds, or perhaps more appropriately, as the seeds of the giant milkweed, known in Hebrew as ‘the apple of Sodom,’ that is natural to the habitat here. He has an easy descriptive manner and talks about his childhood in the kibbutz, and how they’d go down barefoot to Nahal Arugot and can tell you about the local residents in this hot desert environment. Yehonatan is up-close and personally familiar with every bit of the creek. Our trail went through water and it’s a sheer pleasure, whether winter or summer. It’s enchanting to hike through this highly recommended gem, especially if you’re a family with children. Along the way we came across other families, couples, and groups of friends walking together.
We reached the concealed waterfall. If you’re a strong walker who loves a challenge, continue for another half hour or so to the pools at the end. We did, and made our way back comfortably if cautiously along the red-marked path, which goes right above the nahal. It was an easy walk and, together with the visit to the hidden waterfall, took about 4 hours. The total length, there and back, is around 5 kms.
Getting ourselves organized in the car, we drove to Ein Gedi, having heard a rumor that every Friday a local market known as “Shishishuq.” is held in the kibbutz center. Residents of Ein Gedi and the area identified a need for eateries, which Covid-19’s strictures closed, so instead they set up an open air market for individual entrepreneurship. On our visit to shishishuq we found several booths offering delicious eats such as hamburgers, malawach, kanafeh, and other goods. There were also plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables of the highest quality from the Arava.
We opted for a light lunch at Badolina. In the book of that name written by Tzvi Golan, Badolina is a teensy secret kingdom that believes in freedom, love, joy and optimism. It seems that the name chosen for the small campsite built where Ein Gedi’s stable used to be is perfect. The area overlooks the Dead Sea on one hand, and on the other looks towards Ein Gedi’s date groves and the nature reserve. An atmosphere of freedom and release pervades, and our pulses seem to slow down with the tranquility. Meitar receives guests there, greeting people warmly with a big smile. Meitar was born in Ein Gedi and owns the site. We’re instantly poured two glasses of very cold beer: “We just switched barrels, so you get to enjoy it the most!” In no time we’re addicted to the quiet, the pleasant music, the desert mood. Groups of young people are collecting their tents and bags, and heading back to civilization; nearby a family with children is putting up their tent for the coming weekend. We ordered shakshouka, hummus and went with Meitar’s warm recommendation for cheese and spinach sambusak. Everything was delicious, especially the sambusak
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Strolling the kibbutz paths is a charm. These are the paths that also featured in songs about the nahal encampment in Sinai, lined with casuarina trees. Our afternoon walk there was very pleasant.
One of the interest factors in particular: the baobabs. Didn’t we all grow up on stories of the little prince and his fear of the quickly growing baobab? When you come across them in Ein Gedi, you suddenly understand what drove that fear. The baobabs there are a stunning phenomenon: three of the twenty five are almost 50 years old, and their massive trunks and broad treetops hint at how much larger the tree could be in one hundred years, or several centuries, from now. The largest of them is in the center of the kibbutz, in the plaza fronting the kibbutz dining room. Worth seeing!
Ein Gedi’s grounds are a delight, and is much like a well-appointed and vibrant botanical garden, where guided tours are also given if booked in advance with Khen, the guide, on 050-8325459. Khen knows every detail about every plant there.
The Covid-19 period will be remembered in history as a very bad time for the world. But the pandemic’s responses also led to the birth of interesting projects. Many creative people, who are initiators at heart, changed their lifestyles and eventually did things that were good for them. One fabulous example: two people who love cooking, heart and soul, and having tasted their foods, we can attest that we thoroughly enjoyed them.
Our evening meal was served by Noa Changauker, born in Kibbutz Ein Gedi, who for years cooked for other enterprises but more recently decided to prepare meals for bungalows and various kibbutz guests. Noa serves full meals to groups of up to 15 people right where they’re staying. Her style is local Israeli food with a touch of Indian influence. She matches the food to the diners’ requests, such as not too spicy, and so on. She defines her food as wholesome, forthright home cooking.
We enjoyed the rich meal that Noa prepared and brought to us. It included pea soup, chicken pâté, meatballs in a light sauce, delicious curried chicken, refreshing salads, and a loaf of bread that was both fluffy and a charm to look at until it began to quickly disappear. All homemade. For orders, contact Noa on 052-3960712.
We ate a wonderful picnic style breakfast on the lawn facing a picturesque Nahal Arugot lookout. We were there several hours before the flash flood
which we missed. Breakfast was prepared by Yael Ben. Her family came to Ein Gedi about two years ago and decided to make it their home. By profession Yael is a tour guide but during Covid-19 found herself with no work. She decided to start cooking for hikers and local visitors. She’s also in the shishishuq market where you can find her serving her excellent kanafeh. For us she readied a breakfast with touches of Georgia: khachapuri, a Georgian cheese bread; stuffed eggplant, interesting salads, and more. It was great to meet a young woman who is also a natural entrepreneur, taste what her golden hands produce, and who can recommend items based on your personal preferences. Orders from Yael on 054-7566647.
In addition to the desert experience and wonderful hosting, Ein Gedi also offers visitors unique encounters with creative locals.
Personal or group yoga sessions at sunset in the stunning landscape can be booked with Shani, 050-2207699.
Alternative treatments which do so much good for body and soul, such as massage and shiatsu, can be booked from Elam or Nati. The treatments can be carried out in nature or in the bungalow where you’re staying. Nati, 058-6661801. Elam, 052-3960718.
Drumming workshop with Gil. Rhythm to rouse the soul and recharge you with energy. Great for the whole family. Gil: 050-4421442.
Indigo Workshop. Yonit dyes cloth in shades of indigo, a type of blue produced using traditional methods from plants in the desert which is her home. Yonit holds fascinating and fun workshops for small groups of adults, or family groups, where participants learn how to dye cloth. Yonit is a woman of several talents, which include ornamental items made from natural products such as silk, seaweed, natural plant essences, natural oils, masques based on vegetables, fruit, and more. I’m sure that next time I’m in Ein Gedi, I’ll be booking a natural beauty treatments with her because it sounds amazing. Yonit Shamir: 052-3630145.
Visiting Ein Gedi infused me with positive vibes. My lungs expanded with the crisp clean air. We loved the range of activities, attractions, sleeping places, and cuisine options that the Dead Sea Land offers visitors. Meeting these unique people who live in such a challenging environment so far from the bustling commercial and cultural heart of Israel left a strong impression on my mind, making me feel much closer to the region.
I warmly recommend a winter vacation in the Dead Sea Land and particularly, in Ein Gedi, to warm your insides with admiration and love.
